Former YSL creative director Stefano Pilati wasted no time before signing on at Ermengildo Zegna, the century-old Italian suit specialists. This makes him the creative director of Agnona, Zegna’s women’s label, and already he’s imbuing it with mystery and intrigue.

During Milan Fashion Week, Pilati will introduce Agnona collection #0, billed as “a new rule breaking season-less concept.” It won’t be shown on a runway or in a showroom, but in a new store at 11 Via Sant’Andrea (September 18). Because while shopping isn’t a radical concept, buying from a just-shown collection is.

To help celebrate, he’s enlisted elusive singer Alison Moyet — remember the new-wave 80s band Yaz? — to perform in the 15th-century Palazzo Spinola on September 20.