When in doubt, elongate the body. That seems to be the thinking behind the spring collection of Theyskens’ Theory. For Olivier Theyskens — a Belgian designer who once worked in the hallowed halls of French houses Rochas and Nina Ricci, and who now works for the minimalist American masstige brand Theory — ‘making it work’ seems to be the mantra.
It’s a testament to Theyskens’ cutting skills that his models looked preternaturally tall, even when they wore multiple layers. Teetering on platform shoes, they strode out in a mostly black range of chic little blazers with prominent shoulders, below-the-knee sweater dresses, leather sheaths and floor-length skirts, and modified men’s shirting buttoned to the neck.
A burst of colorful, French-style savoir faire erupted at the end with a loose but not baggy series of pastel top-over-pant combos in what looked to be chiffon. Simple but brilliant.