After 20 years in the business, Alexandre Herchcovitch continues to make his mark as a singular voices on the New York schedule. The Brazilian designer struck a sultry, feminine note for spring 14. The show opened with a pared-down palette of black and white pinstripes that called to mind ’40s film sirens in dresses cut just below the knee. Simple shapes revealed the handcrafted details that make the designer so exciting to watch, season after season.

Couture embellishments — collaged fabrics, layered lace, seemingly painted metallic prints — could have skewed crafty, but his restraint and skilled draping elevated even the most experimental moments. Case in point: jackets attached Comme-style to the back of lingerie-like tank tops and an oversized beaded zebra print that managed to feel both luxe and fresh, like shimmering shagreen.