Whatever you make of his Cinderella tendencies, thank goodness Prabal Gurung isn’t yet another designer aiming for sensible American minimalism.
Just this side of gauche, his spring collection was a feast of candy colors, heaving shapes, and luscious materials fit for Marilyn Monroe, who he said was his inspiration. Granted, a very joojed-up Marilyn in an alternate universe of nip-waisted confections, techno-couture, and midcentury artistic allusions combined with a Jetsons-like optimism.
Other influences, perhaps, were Raf Simons’ Dior and a sprinkling of Prada, particularly in the sunglasses. Yet the collection as a whole was an experiment that worked.