The relentless drizzle did not dampen the spirits of those who ventured out to Paris’s Palais de Tokyo. In the belly of the museum — a space normally reserved for post-impressionist installations — Juun J. unveiled his spring 2014 men’s collection. When the first slick-haired model hit the too-close-for-comfort runway, we knew we were in for the unconventional once again.
Called “Ununiform,” the collection commenced with a train of awkward models sporting football jerseys. These beefy embossed garments, fashioned out of white neoprene, were paired with matching micro-shorts and shiny brogues. It was almost as if jock and geek-chic had collided on the runway. And, just when we were about to get into the sporting spirit, the collection faked left and we found ourselves in the midst of mobster 40s, with double-breasted blazers and high-waist trousers — a la Al Capone.
One smart trend we spotted were square-shouldered shirts that were neatly tucked into shorts. These suits — some almost onesie-like in nature — were sleeker silhouettes that hugged the models’ torso. And, so we wouldn’t forget one of the South Korean designer’s signatures, Juun J. nicely integrated the voluminous coats that often frame his collections. For spring 2014 these coats engulfed the models’ slender frame, forming a modern bell silhouette.
To close the show, Juun J. reiterated what the collection was about: the concept of ununiformity. The cast of models sauntered down the runway wearing identical white semi-transparent football jerseys. In this final visual statement, the designer found equilibrium between masculine and feminine, sporting apparel and tailored garments.