The scene at the John Galliano men’s show was reminiscent of a mausoleum at Paris’s L’Orangerie Ephémère. In the city’s Jardin Tuileries, the dreary weather outside was visible through the glass walls, and seemed to seep into the site’s quiet interior. Still, two years after the scandal, even with the appointment of a new creative director, the tainted view of Galliano was evident by the absentees.
The collection hit the floor running with booming music and energetic models sprinting down the catwalk. Creative director Bill Gaytten offered a mash-up of men’s tailored garments mixed with youthful streetwear. In fact, the collection seemed to be a cheeky nod to 90s club-wear, with the garçons sporting flipped-up-brim caps and platform oxfords.
Polka dots, stripes, bright colors. I must admit, the combinations of these three elements were masterfully executed. The neon-colored multi-pocketed skirts were layered with everything from cutaway overcoats, paper-thin sweaters and color-blocked parkas. The wide-leg straight trousers swung effortlessly, with the longest length falling just above the ankle. To offset the bold colors, the folks at Galliano included linear and circular prints in muted tone-on-tone color. These graphics seemed to add more of a textural element to the garments, as they were constructed out of a slick silk jacquard or an equally impressive embossed print.
All in all, under the helm of Gaytten, John Galliano’s spring 2014 collection seemed to be rejuvenated. The youthful energy was almost contagious.