One never knows exactly what to expect at a Henrik Vibskov presentation. The Danish designer is pleasantly unpredictable, which might have something to do with his dabbling in art, interiors and music. For his spring 2014 men’s collection, Vibskov dipped into the melting pot that was once the Byzantine Empire, to bring us flavors that combine Southeast Europe, East Asia and just a smidgen of the Middle East.
The not-so-subtle Turkish reference on the invite should have tipped us off as to what the collection was all about. And if not, the first model sporting a stylized fez hat (also known as a tarboosh), full beard and shin-grazing tunic let us know exactly where Vibskov was going. In keeping with this aesthetic, the consequent silhouettes were boxy, baggy ensembles, consisting of long shirts and carrot-shaped slacks. Lax jackets were also thrown into the mix, in coordinated colors, to accentuate the collection’s casual and comfortable look. Much to our surprise, some semblance of elegance was achieved with a few relaxed-fit suits, fabricated in sleek silver, sophisticated black and bright mustard yellow.
Among the sea of solid separates, the prints — which Vibskov is known for — gave the collection its chutzpah. The graphic zigzag designs were 90s in nature, with knits almost reminiscent of Coogi sweaters, one of which featured a cutout knit fabric, a nod to the designer’s past sculptural installations. Garments like these remind us that fashion design is indeed a form of art, and some designs in particular should be regarded as wearable art.