The change of venue for Jean-Paul Gaultier this season was a reference to his past—a past that we all covet, though we probably didn’t attend, as we were a bit too young. So it took some research to quash our initial puzzlement over the move from his beloved Saint Martin space to Salle Wagram. But, as we learned, this was where his groundbreaking 80s shows took place, and it was clear tonight that his grand history was on his mind.

The entrance was like a film premiere with a red carpet and walls of paparazzi. And before the show, the buzz was electric, with a two-story backdrop spelling out JEAN PAUL GAULTIER in giant letters. The first few looks were incredible, classic Gaultier, but updated, with minimal studded and sculpted tops recalling the cone bra. This quickly gave way to beautiful trench coats, masterfully handled leather pieces, and even an on-trend grungy update of the Breton striped shirt. The insistence on the huge block-letter print, the same print block letters as the backdrop, worked extremely well in colored fur pieces, and the purple and green mink bomber was perfect. But on the silks and twill, it seemed a little dated, and was the only niggle in an otherwise fantastic show.