Though the Yohji Yamamoto show was full of visual contradictions, with sartorial references ranging from the 40s to the 90s, we wanted it all so bad! The mood was playful, entirely soundtracked by Beatles classics, seeming at first as though Yohji was in a nostalgic mood, but by the end simply cementing his disinterest in and opposition to whatever the current trend is (which this season is punk).
His meditations on form and fabric, and his unwillingness to conform, are endlessly alluring. He’s always walked his own path, and his hallmarks were all present and accounted for today: re-appropriated menswear, origami, pleating, knotting, tearing, drapery, frayed woven textiles, asymmetry, and oodles of monochrome black. The man who claimed “black is modest and arrogant at the same time” seems more and more like he’s describing not only his feeling towards the color, but also his personal mantra.
Post-show, the crowd was ecstatic, with much reminiscing about Yamamoto classics. On the way out, two discreet podiums had been set up, presenting the return of the much-loved Yohji Yamamoto fragrance, which has been missing from the market for almost a decade. Samples were handed out to very happy show-goers, while the music still played in the background: “Get back, get back, get back to where you once belonged.”