With their stoic stares and defiant gaits, the models on Rick Owens’ runway always seem to say, “Don’t mess with me.” With his latest show, they went further in their conquering stance, suggesting that nothing, not even the mighty forces of nature, can bring them down.
If the backdrop of horizontal smoke, frizzy wind-swept wigs, and pallid make-up evoked a hostile environment, the Rick Owens woman emerged strong and fierce, hoisted on terrific high-heeled laced-up boots and wearing solid outerwear (long floor-sweeping coats or shorter duffle coats), some of it with inventive, winged collars.
The designer was actually inspired by “battle-scarred heroism,” an idea he exploited quite literally with craftsy kimono like jackets, covered with franken-style stitches, echoing the bold jackets Riccardo Tisci sent out in his Givenchy men’s show last January.
If the ideas were similar, Rick Owens’ black and white show had its own identity, highlighting the designer’s love of the primal, tribal, and indomitable woman. No wonder Cher was sitting front row.