Campiness at Dsquared. What’s new? Starting with the program notes that promised “Dames Masculines walking with sinuous swaggers.”
But before developing the feminine/masculine theme of the collection, Dean and Dan Caten opened the show with a tableau vivant recreating a jazzy 1940s bar, complete with seductive soldiers on leave, sultry femme fatales, and a tuxedoed band lip-syncing oldies like “C’est si bon,” as well as modern-day tunes. Vintage pictures of jazzmen plastered the wall.
The wartime cabaret setting provided an entertaining backdrop to a collection that balanced the commercial with the campy. Pantsuits were dandified with colorful trilby hats or bow ties, and dresses were adorned with rhinestones or ostrich feathers. Satin turbans, cigarette holders, and fur used straightforwardly as stoles and, less convincingly, as a lattice frame on the bottom half of a dress.
In short: user-friendly fashion, no-brained fun.