Pajamas and fur—what could possibly go wrong? That may have been the thinking behind Marc Jacobs’ fall collection, delayed by a fews days due to weather and influenced, he said, by a particularly bad flu season. Unfortunately, the queasiness showed.
The show started provocatively enough with loungewear, both literal and reimagined PJs, followed by slinky, seductive Mrs. Robinson gowns dripping in paillettes—some topped with mink stoles—and shimmery separates that hinted at disco, but which lacked boogy. Throughout, a sepia-tinged light emanated from a large sun (inspired by the artist Olafur Eliasson) set up behind a circular runway. The golden feel-good color associated with early photography, however, came off as sickly and wan, a washed-out effect not helped by photographers who were asked to abstain from using their flash.
After the models had gone through once, the lights were cranked up for a crystal-clear second walk. Sure enough, there were several brilliant looks, like an deep-green fur skirt suit and a roomy baby-blue peacoat, among other stellar outerwear. Yet if the desired effect was a celebratory slumber party, it read more like a walk of shame with a hangover.