Maria Cornejo’s Zero collection was a reaction to the “overwhelming amount of information nowadays,” she said—a concept likely lost on the show-goers busily Instagramming and tweeting every look going down the runway. In response to this glut of information stimulation, Cornejo turned her attention to a slower type of fashion, one based on the luxurious, trend-less essentials that she so expertly turns out season after season.
Her attention to detail was evident in the handcrafted fabrics, including macramé knits from Bolivia that took on the appearance of chainmail, and rich European jacquards in blue and red. A highlight of the season was her experiments with enameled wool. On a generously cut cocoon coat and origami-folded jumpsuit, the lacquered finish took on the appearance of glossy beetle wings.
And of course, it wouldn’t be a Zero show without the designer’s signature prints. This time, instead of pulling images from art and travel, she found a more provocative source of inspiration, manipulating an image of marching protestors into a chic, if confrontational, black and white print. Another pixelated print called to mind sci-fi cityscapes, like Tokyo seen through the eyes of Gaspar Noé.