The extreme femininity of Jason Wu’s collection was obvious without so much as glancing at the show notes. First, there was the massive chandelier, which made it clear that refined fare was on the way. And then came the clothing, a glamorous cavalcade of black and white, with luxurious doses of fox on collars and pockets, and in a fluffy coat as pure white as the snow falling outside on Park Avenue.
The lunching ladies of the neighborhood surrounding the venue would surely find plenty to wear in the sophisticated collection. Wu offered a structured sexuality in belted knee-length skirts and slim-cut trousers, and in sharp shoulders and collars on white blouses buttoned neatly up to the chin. Yet there was also motion in detailed pleats that called to mind Rodarte, and hints of another designer, Raf Simons at Dior, in the placing of camisoles with long trains over pants. Lace and polkadots added old-fashioned charm, while a silvery snakeskin provided exotic relief.