The Grande Verrière of the Palais de Tokyo was reaching fashion fever pitch. “Unexpected” has been the buzzword surrounding the house of John Galliano recently. Hot on the heels of the news that he’ll make his fashion comeback via Oscar de la Renta, Bill Gaytten (the menswear designer of Galliano) stated that artist Joseph Beuys had inspired the fall collection.

Each look of the collection lived up to the German avant-gardist’s reputation as a risk-taker—he was known to experiment with felt in his artwork, even adopting a felt suit, cane and vest as his go-to ensemble. Gaytten certainly studied Beuys’ use of materials and took these lessons to heart: contrasting jacquard and embroidery, fluorescent panels on shoes juxtaposed with classic charcoal grays and blacks, and slender coats mingled with voluminous trousers. Oversize hats and draped detailing around the neckline also added to the unpredictability.

So what’s next for John Galliano? If this show is any indication, expect the unexpected.