It’s been a good year for Maison Martin Margiela, with the runaway success of its H&M collaboration and the confirmation of its couture line from French fashion’s governing body. As a result, the Margiela man has a new air of rockstar nonchalance. Formal tailoring and conceptual use of deconstruction and bricolage, which form the label’s offbeat signature, were perfectly executed in earthy tones of black, brown, maroon and khaki with flashes of orange and turquoise. 

The models were cool, composed, and maybe hungover—fulfilling the demands of contemporary rock stardom. And once we saw Richard Fearless of Death in Vegas take the catwalk, it was clear MMM was committed to a modern barbarism. The looks on show oscillated between sleek tailoring in slim silhouettes and more avant-garde ensembles like ponchos pieced together from patchwork fur and leather, reworked from beat-up biker jackets.

While the house’s penchant for patchwork and graphic white lines were consistent, the extreme contrast between tailored and deconstructed will suit both conservative dressers and avid conceptualists.