Looking at pictures of Rick Owens’ fall/winter collection, it’s hard not to want to snatch every piece off the models’ bodies—for strictly sartorial reasons, of course. And yet, these images don’t do justice to the experience of seeing his army of models storm the vast show space in his splendid wintry garments, symbolizing the unstoppable advance of an outstanding designer.
The collection displayed a far-flung array of coats, especially collarless styles cut at sharp angles, either in a snug duvet fabric, with stark black and white contrasts, or inserted with leather. The strong outerwear, which was often belted kimono-style, summoned comfort without slouchiness, thanks to a geometric and robot-like silhouette of slim sci-fi pants and heavy, often furry sneakers that are sure to rank among the top must-haves come fall. Surfaces were generally devoid of extraneous details, although there was a tactile quality to many pieces, notably coats with a furry bottom half, a vest cut in pony-skin, an intriguing striped fabric, and anatomical gloves with fur tracing the fingers.
As for the frizzy hairdos, which one editor described as Wolfgang Amadeus-meets-Robert Smith, they added a new sense of fun, enriching the bountiful lexicon of a designer who, with this new treatise on industrial chic, has positioned himself above everything else we’ve seen in Paris so far.