For her second men’s outing since her second return to her label, Jil Sander showed exactly what was hoped for: a modern and forward-thinking collection that didn’t cross over into clownish futurism. No costumes or gimmicks here.

Coats and three-piece suits—where the third piece, the vest, was replaced with a collarless shirt—were the star attraction. Each more luxe than the last, they appeared as solids, pinstripes and windowpanes. Enlarged and rounded collars crept into some of the overcoats, which, along with several contrasting-tone pieces and sleeveless sweaters, served as a reminder of Sander’s deft balancing act between the loud and quiet, hard and soft, conventional and experimental.