Junya Watanabe has already elevated many questionable items into the realm of high fashion, but if he can catapult that most maligned and sullied of sporting gear, bike shorts, onto an haute level, he should get an award.

It was hard to know where his spring collection ended and his new athletic collaboration with Puma began, but every one of these pieces screamed high-tech mastery—very much on trend with the season’s lightweight windbreakers—and many hinted at athletic irony. Aside from bike shorts, there were flame decals, neon colors, tribal patterns (perhaps seen as tattoos on ripped gym-goers?), and curvy lines you’d see on a basketball court. Toward the end a series of all-black nylon dresses marked a return to Watanabe’s usual witchy woman.