Comme des Garçons

It’s not easy describing a Comme des Garçons show, even with the benefit of hindsight and crowdsourced tweets. Especially since, according to fashion lore, Rei Kawakubo often gives her design team barely a word of instruction to hang the collection from, which surely lends to its inscrutability. As she herself doesn’t give interviews, who’s to say what’s going through her mind?

The first half of the show consisted of slow-moving, white-haired Rapunzels clad in obsessively folded ecru canvas dresses. Similar to origami, but more deconstructed and haphazard, these folds grew into larger masses as the show went on, until models appeared to be wearing a rack’s worth of clothing in one garment, sleeves jutting every which way. Hats, meanwhile, alternated between metal contraptions that could’ve been mistaken for hood ornaments and old handbags collapsed into forgotten ghosts of their former selves.

That was the halfway mark. What came next were power-walking models in identical garb, but all black instead of ecru. Shots of purple, red, and blue velour were slowly introduced, stitched right on top of the folded masses. These amorphous lumps, classic Comme silhouettes, were the clear hits of the collection and will find loving homes in many a closet.

If we had to guess, and we do, we’d say the collection had to do with collisions of some kind, perhaps car crashes. But in Rei Kawakubo’s own private universe, there exists nothing as mundane as inspiration.

Leave a comment