Jil Sander

Sure, at Jil Sander there were beautiful fabrics and colors—particularly aubergine, navy and, at the end, a series of crisp whites—but the German designer’s second return to her namesake label was, more than anything, a twist on a classic. Literally, a twist, and a big one. Using volume and geometry to her advantage, she explored elliptical and curvilinear shapes that, for this designer especially, were a little shocking. Even the leather boots employed a swirl motif.

Working with a reputation as a minimalist and following the footsteps of Raf Simons following hers, Jil Sander had a lot to contend with. She did it by paying a preponderance of attention to areas she hasn’t paid particular attention before, most notably skirts, hips, and sleeves, which appeared raglan, robust, and at times show-stopping. Those rare moments a dress veered into painter’s smock territory, the next look would be a sinuously sculpted skirt and jacket—the work of an artist. With this new and visible openness, Jil Sander gave herself plenty of paths forward…

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