It’s only a matter of time before Courtney Love’s kinderwhore look of yore is revived on the runway with a complete line-up of doppelgangers. Until such a tribute, there is Dries Van Noten’s spring collection, which sampled—tactfully and carefully—elements of grunge.

Tapping grunge is nothing new, but in Van Noten’s couture-capable hands, it took on a shiny, minty-fresh veneer. Flannels and plaids—sometimes in delicate metallics, resembling the invitation—were gently tapered, artfully mismatched, and clearly not meant for a lumberjack’s back. Crumpled rosettes spilled down the fronts of skirts in elegant cascades, not in the inebriated way. Meanwhile, Love’s ever-present slipdress made several appearances, ending with an enormous sheer version, only there were plenty of clothes underneath, as layering once again played a central role for the designer.

Van Noten’s usual men’s trappings were again evident in pajama-like bottoms with gathered hems, men’s shirting with pockets aplenty, and a few tuxedo lapels and luxurious smoking jackets.