Proenza Schouler offered another career-defining show this season. Many designers have looked to Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez’s vision for their own collections, attempting to captitalize on the directional approach that has led the label to commercial and editorial success.

The collection picked up where fall left off, with slit skirts and scuba silhouettes. In developing their business beyond runway fashion and covetable handbags, McCollough and Hernandez have further defined their DNA, a term that becomes more outmoded with each emerging designer. The designers produced one eye-catching look after another. The simplicity of optic patchwork leather dresses struck a chord, as did aquamarine and highlighter-yellow dresses.

The two have limited their oeuvre to a handful of coherent ideas to represent their brand. We’re looking at a Proenza Schouler that understands their vision. But how do you explain the realism of a red patent leather coat with horizontal stripes paired with a matching skirt? It doesn’t necessarily make sense, but it’s what makes them wunderkinds.