Francisco Costa got the memo about black and white graphics. It was a dominant trend of the New York collections. Of course, approaching the subject with a minimalist lens led to some stunning creations, like a crisp white strapless dress overlaid with an intricate wavy lattice or a white silk coat with flashing peeks of black backing. Costa presented a plethora of technical accomplishments, essentially a walking boast of the engineering skills the Calvin Klein design team has become known for.

Luxury cars were Costa’s chief reference, and you could see it in the rounded lines of a leather trimmed knee-length dress with coned bust and fluid peplum. Sleek and shiny, and undeniably expensive—the Maserati of fashion.

Costa also felt that the cone bra deserved a moment, working it into a variety of looks. The bra area was the element of uniformity in one of Costa’s most diverse collections. Transparency, peplums, netting, peaked shoulders—everything was on the table apparently. He was clearly feeling ambitious. And while Costa has never considered flattering the body to be his main priority, his strongest pieces accentuated a woman’s natural frame, even if a few looks were a tad hippy.