It’s no secret Kate and Laura Mulleavy have carved a niche with their eclectic, nerd-chic sensibility. Horror movies, obscure foreign films, science, and the Discovery Channel have all made it into the motley mix of inspirations. So it comes as no surprise they went medieval for spring, as in Dungeons & Dragons—and in all likelihood, Game of Thrones.

This translated into their usual overwrought regalia, patchwork, layering, boxy tops and chain-link detailing. A pair of grommet leather trousers were très woman warrior, perfect for slaying dragons; fringed jackets would fit right in at a Renaissance Fair or a hair-metal concert; and an aquamarine gown with a gold latticework bodice is certainly worthy of a modern Khalessi.

The overall effect was somewhat ‘futures past’ as a sci-fi edge worked its way into iridescent fabrics and brocades. At times this layered construction has been tricky to translate into flattering proportions that work on real bodies, not just 14-year-old starlets. But here, the collection provided a much welcome corrective as cuts were restrained for seductive appeal, proportions thoughtfully balanced, and embellishments added without looking too bulky. These might seem like small details, but they make all the difference when it comes to buying into a fantasy.