Maria Cornejo made a point to mention in the show notes that these are clothes that transition from “wintry January through balmy August”—a simple something many designers tend to overlook. The Zero woman will have lots of little jackets, vests and even zip-up corsets to layer while waiting for summer. And by the time Memorial Day finally rolls around, there are gauzy white dresses that can easily go from a summer Friday to the Hamptons Jitney.
Cornejo has always been thoughtful about her muse, perhaps because she is exactly the kind of creative type who buys her clothes. The spring collection considered every aspect of her customer’s life, with separates in knits and arty prints for work, macramé dresses for evening, and sporty little shorts and architectural swimsuits for the weekend. A new take on scuba made the material feel grown up, whether in a sexy, slim-fitting dress or bubble sweater with oversized zippers.
The season’s big development was a subtle one, a return to symmetry. There were still plenty of silky, slouchy dresses, and a smattering of vivid digital prints. As usual, they were personal: abstract riffs on street art, sculpture, and the view of crop circles seen from a plane.