Thakoon is a brand that’s hard to qualify. Years ago the designer established himself with his ladylike aesthetic, positioning himself as a young, experimental Oscar de la Renta. Since then, that niche has been filled by Jason Wu. In recent seasons, Thakoon has played with Maasai prints, futuristic caging, Western motifs, and psychedelia—and those are just a few of the ideas that have sprung from his mental incubator.

It’s admirable that Thakoon hasn’t pigeonholed himself into a single aesthetic, missteps and all. Nonetheless, this season felt like a return to form for the designer. Floral, bird and butterfly prints were reminiscent of the romantic femininity Thakoon built his business on. The palette was light and clean and he successfully hit on a some clever pairings, like a sheer floral paneled knit worn over a collared top worn with a dramatic paillette skirt or a peplumed jacket and tiered sheer skirt.

The show would have felt more appropriate in London, as the explosive florals and textured organza fabrics had the feel of a Christopher Kane or Marios Schwab collection. There’s no question it was a hit for Thakoon, but the fashion industry is looking for a clear answer to a couple of nagging questions: who are you and what to do represent?