The big buzz at Rad Hourani was the return of another iconic 90s supe, Erin O’Connor, who’s stepping back onto the catwalk this season. And what an apt choice she was, as her angular, slightly androgynous looks perfectly offset Rad’s incisive vision.

But as she opened the show to a packed house, another thing became instantly apparent: Rad’s newfound sophistication. This season, the unisex label celebrated its fifth year, and during that time it has pioneered the cutting-edge, futuristic goth look that has found many eager fans. It’s certainly a look, but a niche one at that and one that more often than not requires a full commitment. However, from the first exit, it was clear that Rad has begun evolving past the black box, while maintaining a clear brand identity—and that’s no easy task. Those razor sharp geometric jackets didn’t soften, but seemed infinitely more approachable in lush burgundy hues, frosty pinks and dazzling metallics. The palette let the craftsmanship and thoughtful cuts speak for themselves, rather than being overwhelmed by the future death-squad effect.

Perhaps even more importantly, the looks could be taken apart into infinitely covetable signature pieces for a real wardrobe, like a pair of paneled cropped trousers, a metallic squared-off jacket, and those burgundy coats. That’s the real magic behind a great collection and also a sustainable vision, and in both cases Rad delivered. As the model notes said backstage: “Walk straight ahead. Be confident. Celebrate yourself.”