Alexander Wang was feeling negative space this season and earned his comparisons to Helmut Lang by exploring a singular idea, its every permutation, closing the subject only when it had been covered from every angle. This was a lesson in structure, but Wang chose to create spaces rather than seams. The effect was one of seams coming apart, with skin peeking through narrow slits.
The illusion of the body coupled with sweatshirt shapes and relaxed shorts was an unexpected pairing, and one that required a careful study in proportion, repeating the same ideas in various fabrics like embossed leather and silk. The commitment to uniformity was admirable, but the collection was limited by its straightforwardness, and could have used an influx of color. Black, white, silver, and tan are chic, no doubt, but their repeated use could be read as safe.
Wang skirted the line of wearability with some of his pieces, but you can’t deny the sex appeal of this season’s cutout dresses. The stunner on Erin Wasson can and should be worn by anyone with the body to pull it off. Also, an It-shoe if there ever was, Wang introduced a banded-calf T-strap sandal, perfectly modern yet immediately timeless. And of course, it wouldn’t be an Alexander Wang show without a stunt casting and a spectacle. This season, Liberty Ross, fresh from the Kristen Stewart scandal, and a neon-lit finale fit the bill, respectively. Never a dull amount.