Robert Geller was thinking surfers for spring. But don’t expect sun-bleached hair and Billabong pastels. This was surfing U.S.A. done Geller-style, with that signature romantic streak. Picture New Wave poets on a Big Sur retreat, with maybe a dash of Point Break. The models all sported a neoprene bodysuit under their looks, like wetsuits, to hammer the point home.

On the runway this translated into a study in contrasts: structure versus fluid movement that led to some inventive juxtapositions in materials. A neoprene moto-vest paired with slouchy linen shorts opened the show, and it’s a look that’s bound to make a splash in and out of the water. Loose tailoring dominated, with airy linen blends providing a soft spin on tailoring. A boxy suit with gathered pants was a particular standout, as was the knitwear, all netting and meshy tops in lush sand tones that are perfect for the shore as well as summer in the city.

Geller also explored print with a slightly retro digital pattern on a pair of crisp trousers that looked extra sharp when paired with a matching shirt. All and all, Geller certainly caught the right wave, hanging loose all the way through.