After a no-holds-barred resort collection in the gardens of Versailles, Karl Lagerfeld went back to basics for Chanel couture. After all, this is a collection catering to the impeccably coiffed and immaculately privileged, so it only makes sense that the tweed suit would make a triumphant return—but not without a few surprises.

An interpretation of Lagerfeld’s idea of ‘new vintage,’ the elaborate, 64-look collection was appropriately shown in the Salon d’Honneur of the Grand Palais, which hasn’t been seen in some 70 years. From the illustrated portrait of Coco herself on the invitation to the 1940s vibe that ran throughout—i.e. swing coats, boxy shapes and loose bows at the neck, all in a dusty palette of pink, gray and silver—the show invoked a nostalgic spirit. It was left to the frothy, femme textures at the end—for example, a bright red and blue ombre sequin jumpsuit—that delivered on the new part of Lagerfeld’s inspiration.

But perhaps the real standout of the show was the bride finale, a head-to-toe feathered gown worn by Lindsey Wixson that anyone, from any decade, would kill to wear.