The Rick Owens show is always blessed with the best sound system in Paris. The bass thunders and the top end sears like none other, and yet everything remains crystal clear. His spring men’s collection opened with a pulsing beat offset by the heavy wooden click-clack of the models’ clogs as they strode through beams of light into Owens’ darkness.
The opening had a refined feel, strict black that evolved into revealing sheer tailoring with clean lines. But, this soon gave way to the signature robes and dresses that have become synonymous with the house, in muted colors, and a standout checkerboard motif. All the while it straddled the thin line between the androgynous and the shamanic, with a devotion to craft second to none and a deft application of fabric and volume normally only seen on the couture catwalks.
In the final section of the show we exited a seedy Eastern European techno club and into more sports-influenced garments, which began to show up last season. His graphic print parkas and stripped-back bombers will appeal to Owens’ biggest new advocate, A$AP Rocky, though it remains to be seen whether he will be wearing them a la Rick, with a floor-length skirt, a heavy legwarmer and wooden clogs.