After seven years, Jil Sander made her return to the label bearing her name—and it was a triumphant one. For spring, the Sander man takes a slightly boyish turn from Raf Simons’ slick, leather-filled finale at the house.

Unsurprisingly, Sander played with subtle shifts of volume, pairing long double-breasted blazers and vests with trim pants, and placing boxy T-shirts or color-blocked cardigans over wide-cut shorts with high socks. Suiting alternated between casual head-to-toe cobalt and more formal cuts in scarlet, all paired with oxfords with squared-off toes with contrast trim (a trend that doesn’t seem to be going away any time soon).

Cream khaki looks closed the show, underscoring Sander’s gift with basics, which has kept customers coming back, wherever she is.