Viktor & Rolf’s sculptural fashions have referenced everything from topiary trimming to cartoon text. Now, launching a pre-fall capsule, the duo has found inspiration in something a little more traditional: the cinched-waist Victorian silhouette.

Picking up on their moonlit fall collection, Soir features five floor-length, jewel-tone evening options in luxe fabrics like satin and velvet, while twisting conventional notions fur, lace and fringe. Dresses include the demure Catherine, with ruffled sleeves and high collar in a velvet rose print, and the racy Anna, with sheer tulle panels that would make Queen Victoria blush, and promptly ban it.