As one pantsuit after another came down the Miu Miu runway, it was like a trip down memory lane, and down King’s Road. This was London’s Swinging 60s and an homage to the style of Brian Jones, the young Rolling Stone who met his early death before the 70s had reached its full psychedelic and glam-rock stride.
Miuccia Prada dispelled the little girl dresses that have been so much a part of her brand for a series of masculine suits, shirts and ties, right down to the low stack heel shoe. Just in case you never got the masculine memo, hair was flat and middle-parted with a curl of hair forming a sideburn on either side of the painted and sometimes mirrored eyes.
First out were the simpler, single-breasted suits in blue and green followed by a double-breasted suit in mustard. Lapels were large and trousers cropped just above the ankle to real the heavy block-heeled shoes. A silk blouse, foulard or wide necktie—and sometimes all three—softened the masculine vibe.
As they progressed, the suits and geometric printed shirts became more flamboyant in both jacquard pattern and cut. But these were not boy suits of the Thom Browne variety; jacket hems curved and the lengths almost dropped to a car coat and more 70s proportions.
There were broad stripes, chevrons and baroque patterned suits, sometimes with short capelet sleeves. Interspersed with the frenzy of floral pattern and a few skirt suits, there were tan suede combinations and a fab a swimming-pool blue belted tunic worn over cropped trousers.
Just as the suits evolved along this retro journey, so did the shoes. As each Nouveau-patterned suit became bolder, so the shoes became higher, from stack-heeled loafers and snakeskin platform ankle boots to full-on glam-rock boots with silver toilet heels.
The only slight deviation in story was the final series of linked-mirror tunics worn over mini-skirts and large collared shirts. Aside from this, Miuccia Prada showed such commitment to her theme that instead of her customary wave she broke from convention and took to the runway in a broadtail-trouser suit herself.