Against the backdrop of bright moonlit night, models entered dreamily onto the catwalk, perhaps distracted by a romantic sentiment. They moved to the plaintive strains of composer Max Richter’s 2004 album The Blue Notebook, which features Franz Kafka excerpts spoken by Tilda Swinton.
Such was the theme of Viktor & Rolf’s fall collection, a Victorian midnight. The doll being a recurring motif in the designers’ repertoire, they presented a dark, moody, make-believe collection. Out came feather-light tulle gowns with glass embroidery and silk fringing, followed by strong eveningwear with high collars and elaborate fur trim. Sometimes fur was the focus, artfully sheared as if Edward Scissorhands topiary. One has learned to expect the unexpected from the Dutch duo, and here surprises emerged in sumptuous metal-sheen silks draped like oversized pajamas.
The moon has always been associated with the feminine mystique and lyrical longing. This collection left you moonstruck and wanting to wax poetic.