You can count on Rick Owens for first-rate showmanship. For fall, he transported his audience to a world of underground rituals. Two horizontal flames ignited the venue’s pitch-black backdrop as his models slinked down the vast runway with Zebra Katz’s hypnotic, naughty song Ima Read on the soundtrack (“Ima give that bitch some knowledge…What bitch wouldn’t like my shit?…I called you a slut…What you gonna do bitch?”)

As for the clothes, they were classic Owens: long bathrobe coats over draped tops and floor-length skirts. Although the designer sent out soft armor in the shape of round-sleeved cropped leather jackets, there was something cozy about this collection, not only in its use of knits and fuzzy mohair, but also in the soothing palette that ranged from light gray to pale apricot. The show climaxed with fur coats—recalling his stint at Revillon—traced with geometric patterns.

Owens can also boast what will probably rank as one of the hottest accessories for fall: beanie-like knit caps forming a fine lattice over the face, sure to be snatched up by girls and boys alike.