James Long designs for global citizens, and this season his models even toted battered leather carry-ons. Inspired by Edward Burtynsky’s photographs of quarries, blocky geometric shapes were the touchstone of his fall men’s collection, as well topographical, nubby surfaces in earthy tones of ochre, sky blue and taupe. The other big story was David Lynch’s suburban surrealism, seen in matching shirts and sweaters in pewter and beige chevron patterns, as well as high-buttoned embroidered collars.
Long has a knack for knitwear. Here it appeared in various permutations, all shot through with tinselly golden thread. At once sumptuous and threadbare, gold seams glistened from slubby chenille like bits of precious metal in a geode. Elsewhere, outsized cricket sweaters and knee-length cardigans recalled the colonial glamour of his last collection. Long is at his best when dealing in contrasts.