Francisco Costa had modesty on his mind for Calvin Klein. His offerings consisted mostly of demure dresses in thick wool, enlarged and rounded out in the arm and skirt. Costa, like so many designers, jumped onto exaggerated volumes for fall. Tangerine and fuchsia coat dresses weren’t worn as much as they imposed their sculpted shape onto the model. It wasn’t all contour and cut though; the breastplate panels from spring are back, and this time the peekaboos brought a much-needed dose of sexuality.

There was also a good deal of leather on display: pleated, darted, and textured to austere perfection, and paired with waist-cinching metallic belts. The Rooney Mara effect, too, was hard to miss. The red-carpet sensation sometimes dubbed Rooney-bot has obviously made an impression with her focused gaze and severe styling.