Its been a season of experimentation so far, and one thing’s becoming clear. Now, more than ever, designers are forgoing embellishment in favor of remodeling silhouettes. No one did it better than Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez at their Proenza Schouler show tonight. And the extreme oversizing started right from the top. White leather motorcycle jackets bared only a slight resemblance to vintage Perfectos, because the designers had tweaked the proportions to the max. Trousers weren’t spared the volumizing effect either, here pleated and wide-legged.

New York is always home to the best outerwear, and Proenza Schouler set retailers’ hearts aflutter with their asymmetrical shearlings. Sure to cost a fortune, but worth the splurge. For cocktail, the duo sent out their best, a pair of mint and pumpkin silk dresses, expertly updated with leather sleeves.

McCollough and Hernandez owe a great debt to Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga for their textured wrap skirts and lacquered shifts, but it’s hard to fault them considering the Proenza riff was applied to every look. For example, a silk bomber done in firm leather was an homage to China, without any blatant appeals.