Save for a single pair of gold pants, Alexandre Herchcovitch’s fall collection hit entirely between the thigh and knee. But therein, the Brazilian designer found a lot of room to play with.

The focus of the collection was textile, and an innovative appliqué technique that fuses luxe materials like suede with shearling and silk gabardine with cashmere. On oversized coats, flipped collars and rolled sleeves revealed the lining, while dresses were made of patchworks of fused fabrics, tiers of diaphanous lace or with faux fur peeking out from the seams and hems. The combos came in rich autumnal colors, like pumpkin, burgundy, rust and mustard, in sharp contrast to several blazing gold leather pieces.

Dresses continued the ladylike theme of the designer’s spring collection of modest, slightly retro cuts nipped in at the waist—with visible seams to keep things from feeling too prim—while coats offered a looser, almost bubbly silhouette. The volume was also turned up in a few dresses with shiny, bright yellow padded tops, a plastic touch in an otherwise demure collection.