Jeff Buckley’s rendition of Hallelujah by candlelight is enough to tug at anyone’s heartstrings, but leave it to Thom Browne to squeeze a little more pathos from the room. For his fall collection, a eulogy to ten young girls who lived and died for fashion, the designer displayed ten open caskets, each with a (live) model inside. The staging felt sentimental, if not paternal, as Browne tapped into the psychological development of female youth, that fragile time when childhood gives way to womanhood, sometimes violently.

Cropped-fit jackets and shrunken trousers led to expansive shapes growing out from the body at the breasts, hips and shoulders. This was surely his most mature women’s offering to date. Never overly serious, however, Browne employed humor through fur this season, contrasting actual fox fur pieces, most notably in a shrunken bolero worn over a blazer, with cartoon-style foxes in wool, worn as stoles.