At Yohji Yamamoto’s Y-3, models with fresh-from-the-hills complexion strode the rug-layered runway in pleasantly predictable athletic-wear—if always a bit too cool for the gym. Slouchy sweaters were worn as tunics and nearly every pair of pants were drop-crotch, some all the way to the models’ ankles. 

The collection drew inspiration from the nomadic cultures of Central Asia, which abounded in the accessories and details: colorful, intricately woven lapels, old-world riding hats and traditional scarves piled high atop track jackets.

Where there was history, there was also a glimpse of the future. Several pieces were made from a “breakthrough W-181 heat-trapping fabric once used by NASA.” Paired with playful leopard-print collars, fisherman’s pants and bright orange bungee cords, the collection was at once referential and forward—and, in an increasingly globalized culture, very apt.