According to the show notes, Timo Weiland’s fall collection was an homage to an “early period of New Wave nostalgia in New York City [when] a pre-rave, post-punk collective of alternative rock & hip hop artists banded together on St. Marks Place, stargazed and became enamored with outer space.”

Despite the inspiration, the collection was actually quite grounded. Grunge came out strong, the first look worn by a brooding waif rocking pink-blonde hair a la Kate Moss circa 1998. She limped slightly, and didn’t give a damn. Heavy A-line skirts were softened with “UFO silk” panels, while delicate dresses in celestial shades of lavender and blue flowed from under slouchy (not sloppy) sweaters.

This was an elevated grunge. Vests were knitted in mink fur, bodices were sculpted in leather and the Weiland specialty: coats, here with thick raccoon cuffs and collars.