Thakoon Panichgul is a designer who’s never afraid to experiment. It works in his favor, most of the time. For fall, what really worked was when he took on the role of provocateur. Woven-leather panels caged the bodice and cutouts popped up on otherwise demure metallic trenches. The sexual elements drew you in, but the real mastery on display came from the aggressive tailoring. Hints of 80s futurism were updated with dozens of seams and darts, taking a basic wool dress from sheath to structure.

In the meantime, Thakoon could relate more to what women are wearing now. Ruched red leather and paperbag skirts were a bit on the unflattering side and hard to visualize for either day or evening, but he eventually hit his stride with Mongolian lamb sweaters and rust-colored outerwear. Hit or miss, in a week when so many designers are playing it safe, it’s nice that someone is still willing to take a chance.