The last couple of seasons saw fashion designers going ape over Mad Men’s vintage haberdashery, but as much as we enjoyed how Joan’s twinsets made the Victoria’s Secret Angels look like soccer moms, it seems the beloved throwback is now a thing of the past. The duo behind Helmut Lang, Nicole and Michael Colovos, went much farther back, drawing heavily from Game of Thrones, HBO’s fantasy tour de force. Yes, designers can be Comic Con-ers, too.
The algorithm was indisputably medieval—thigh-high boots, carapaced sleeves, ripped tufts of fur and hide—but trimmed and tapered with sleek touches of closely fitted lace, wraparound skirts, and supple, sand-colored suede. While elsewhere the mention of a cinched waist would have conjured images of petticoats and pocket squares, the femininity that permeated Helmut Lang was unapologetically feudal.