Alexandre Plokhov took his gothic vision in a more mature direction for fall. Now, that’s hard to say about a collection that opened with a shirtless male model in skintight leather trousers and a chunky silver necklace, but down the line Plokhov addressed tailoring in a way that made sense for men who are neither in their early 20s nor Alice Cooper.

Plokhov primarily worked with soft lines, showing long fluid trousers and elongated jackets. There was also stellar outerwear, particularly a double-breasted gray tweed coat that showed a great amount of sophistication, something Plokhov has picked up since his time spent designing men’s at Versace. In the future, it would be refreshing to see Plokhov experiment with color, but for now it’s safe to say the designer has honed his aesthetic precisely where it needs to be.