Maybe Karl Lagerfeld has a thing for soldiers, or maybe he was just on the look-out for good design. Either way, he caused quite a stir when he showed up at the Dior Homme show, an ode to military uniforms.

Designer Kris Van Assche used a near-exclusive palette of army green, with a little navy blue, black, ecru and ivory thrown in—almost all of it tone on tone. Experimentation was left to fabric choices. Accessories came in croc, quilted bomber jackets were shown in matted leather, and a double-breasted trench had contrasting silk sleeves. Another jacket had a sort of outer silhouette in shaved shearling.

At show’s end, a rather interesting print of birds, perhaps doves, could be seen on trousers, coats, and hats—a peaceful conclusion.