Maison Martin Margiela began with an exhibition of fall’s key pieces. Suspended glass vitrines showcased rubber-soled men’s shoes in rich beiges and sheepskin bags that had spectators gawking. Standouts included a cardigan hand-knitted from plastic garbage bags and classic leather shoes covered in gold and silver leaf.

But the collection was really about outerwear, and the mashing and morphing thereof. Is it a pea coat or a blazer, a duffle coat or a bomber? Denim boiler suits were reworked like only the Maison can, by adding detachable parts—a collar, for example. Ample fur and sheepskin were also used, as well as faux leather, especially in pants—a continuation of Margiela’s riff on fetishism.