The guitar strains of Swedish-Argentine folksinger José González opened Yohji Yamamoto men’s collection. And if you think about it, modern folk isn’t far removed from the designer’s urban-nomad aesthetic. Scruffy models resembling vintage sepia-toned photos one might see in Daniel Boone’s scrapbook were the first to come out, wrapped in oversized man blankets. Double-breasted coats with gold buttons and embroidered appliqués added the finishing touch to our dapper pioneers.

With a musical shift from folk to classical piano came men in silk scarves, tied as ascots and tucked into tailcoats, honoring the romanticism of a composer. And it wouldn’t be Yamamoto without his signature black suits. Here they appeared with asymmetrical detailing or a colored topstitch. Their heavy fabrics—tweed, wool, mohair—balanced out the delicacy of pajama-style suits in a beautiful shade of wine. At that point Yamamoto emerged to take a bow with his army of models in full adoration.